Faucet Repair in Austin, TX

Homeowners call us about a faucet that “won’t stop dripping,” a handle that “just spins,” or water that appears in the cabinet below the sink. We translate those descriptions into the faucet parts that need attention: the cartridge, stem, O-rings, aerator, supply lines, and shutoff valves.

A kitchen faucet may drip from the spout after the handle closes, while a bathroom faucet may leak around the handle only while water runs. A low stream can point to a blocked aerator, but a weak hot-water flow from one side of the faucet can also involve a cartridge or a partly closed angle stop beneath the sink.

A small spout drip can often wait for a scheduled repair, though it continues to waste water and can leave mineral buildup on the basin. Water under the cabinet, a faucet that will not shut off, or a cracked supply line should not wait because water can soak the cabinet floor, wall, and nearby connections.

Drip and loose handle

“My faucet keeps dripping” can mean a worn cartridge, a damaged washer in an older compression faucet, or debris caught on a valve seat. “The handle is loose” may mean a backed-out set screw, a stripped handle adapter, or a stem that no longer turns the internal valve correctly.

Customers also report a faucet that squeals when opened, water spraying from the pull-down hose, or a stream that suddenly comes out sideways. A squeal can come from a restricted cartridge or supply line, while a sideways stream often starts with mineral deposits in the aerator screen. Water around the base of the spout usually points to worn O-rings or seals beneath the spout rather than the same part that causes a drip.

These complaints can sound alike from across the room, but each one leads us to a different fitting, repair method, and parts requirement once we inspect the faucet.

Sink valve inspection

We begin the callout by identifying the faucet make, handle style, and location of the leak, then we run hot and cold water separately. We check the aerator, spout, handle movement, pull-down hose, supply connections, and the angle stops under the sink. A normal residential water pressure commonly falls between 40 and 80 psi, and pressure outside that range can affect a cartridge, hose, and spray head.

We shut off the water at the angle stops when they operate, remove the handle and trim, and inspect the cartridge, stem, seals, and retaining clip. A straightforward aerator, O-ring, handle screw, or cartridge replacement commonly fits into the same visit and may take 30 to 90 minutes after access is clear. We test the hot and cold sides, spout rotation, spray function, and cabinet connections before restoring the sink.

A seized shutoff valve, corroded mounting nut, specialty finish, or cartridge that must be matched to a specific model can extend the work. If the correct cartridge, hose, or valve body must be ordered, we isolate the fault where possible and book the return work after the part arrives.

Cartridge, shutoff, and access

The cartridge or valve stem often drives the scope of a faucet repair because each manufacturer uses its own shape, ports, seals, and retaining method. A common cartridge that we can identify and source locally usually involves less preparation than a discontinued model, a specialty finish, or a faucet with no visible brand marking.

The angle stops beneath the sink also matter. A shutoff that turns freely lets us isolate the faucet and work at the cabinet; a seized, corroded, or leaking shutoff may need replacement before we can safely remove the faucet parts. Rusted supply nuts, tight cabinet walls, a deep sink bowl, and a disposal or filter housing can limit tool access around the mounting hardware.

A leak at the handle, spout, hose, or valve body changes the parts and labor involved. A damaged valve body or a faucet with unavailable internal parts can call for a replacement fitting rather than another cartridge, and matching the existing hole spacing and finish may require a separate installation visit.

Model number and handle

Before calling, check which room holds the faucet and whether the problem sits at the kitchen sink, bathroom basin, bar sink, or laundry tub. Note whether it has one handle, two handles, a pull-down spray head, or a separate side sprayer, since those fixtures use different hoses and valve parts.

Look for a brand name or model number on the spout, handle cap, escutcheon plate, spray head, or original instruction sheet. A clear photo of the faucet and the cabinet below the sink can show the hose route, angle stops, supply lines, and available wrench access.

Tell us whether the faucet drips only after shutoff, leaks while running, or leaves water in the cabinet even when nobody uses the sink. If you know the fitting’s approximate age or whether a cartridge was replaced before, that can help us bring a closer match.

Call CT Plumbing Austin at (737) 263-1705 with the model number or photos available. A drip can build mineral deposits around the spout, while water beneath the sink can swell cabinet flooring and damage the shutoff connections.